Safety Limit #2 On Manitowoc Ice Machine January 09 2014, 153 Comments

We moved our Manitowoc ice machine a few feet and now it’s not making ice. We turned off and on and it will make one tray of ice but then the red wrench light goes on. What is the problem? Thank you!!
Sincerely, Maryanne

@Alice, what did the service technician do to ‘repair’ your ice machine? The problem you discuss could be caused by being dirty and a thorough cleaning may be required. I’m assuming that it is going into harvest too soon, then attempts to harvest ice that isn’t there, causing it to lock out after 3 consecutive cycles.

Also, those machines have a 3 yr parts and labor warranty on them. If you suspect a failed part, I would get a trained technician that is authorized to perform Manitowoc warranty work. However, please note, if it’s because the ice thickness control is dirty or has scale all over it, this is not covered.

We have a Q130
We turn it on, it will make about 2 trays of ice then it shuts itself off.
We had a technician look at it, he left as it was making ice. We got a 1/2 bag
and it quit. Now if we turn it on it just runs. Starts to make ice in refrigeration mode,
water stops and it just runs and gets hot.

All this since we took apart cleaned and sterilized.
We have had this for about 2yrs, this is the first trouble we have had.

Any ideas?

@MikeW you should not soak your probes in acid and yes, the probe can sense through the white plastic or even laying on something. I would recommend replacement.

The part number is a 7601603 and can be found at the link below. Newer probes for under counter models are going to be gray plastic.

http://icemakerpartsshop.com/products/7601603-manitowoc-ice-thickness-control

Q130 is getting the red harvest light as soon as it starts it cycle. Cleaned but still same issue. Unplug the thickness probe from board and it’s good but red light comes on as soon as you plug in even with probe off to side. Replaced wire thinking short but noticed that I can be touching the white plastic from the probe -no metal and when I touch metal with other hand light goes off. Thought minerals were allowing continuity so I soaked in muratic acid but it still does it. Is the board failing reading to sensitive? Is the thickness probe bad and is conductive across the plastic? Either way thanks for the advice and would be great to include part number of your recommendation.

@Lee, what is the model number of your ice machine? Also, you need to follow the sequence of operations for your model. So, after starting up ice machine, what energizes? Is the machine shutting down? Are you getting a safety limit? Is it failing in freeze or harvest?

Compresser has severe ice on it and is only making 1/3 squares

@Todd, I would recommend replacing the entire valve. There are no individual parts available for the float.

@Chow, could you describe what the evaporator looks like? If you have copper showing through, then your evaporator needs replacement. If it still has a nickel look to it, then a thorough cleaning may not be enough. If you are positive you have cleaned the evaporator and scrubbed it(using a soft nylon brush with nickel safe cleaner), then it may be time to look into a refrigeration issue.

I have a Q210 that is not producing ice. After cleaning it, I noted that the float valve (Part no. 8369049) does not work properly. I disassembled, cleaned and reassembled, including the plunger/cotter pin assembly. It works freely when I hold it down in a bucket of water, but when I install the unit, turn on the water pressure and fill the bin, the plunger does not work. If I manually raise the float, it stays up, but if I manually press it down, it stays submerged. I am wondering if I need a new float valve, or just the plunger? Thanks.

SY0605W , water cool. I clean the evaporator a few time already, Change the water filter and it seem that the ice still not dropping off the evaporator at the first time, I have to shut the unit off, and put it back on before the ice will drop off the evaporator at the 2nd time. or else the unit will shut off after a few attempt making ice. what could I do to make the ice come off the evaporator at the first attempt?

@Jason, you shouldn’t be dumping water during the freeze cycle. There is a flush before the cycle starts, but not during. If there is water going out your dump valve during a cycle, check the voltage, if you are not getting voltage but still losing water, clean the dump valve or replace. It’s possible a piece of trash came through the line and is holding it open.

If you are constantly getting voltage no matter what, sounds like a control board issue. Hopefully shorting out didn’t cause more issues.

@witness, did you clean the condenser as well, besides just replacing the air filter? HPCO is high pressure cut out, which is caused by the unit running too hot and shutting down so that it does not damage the compressor. Typically this is caused by a dirty air filter and condenser.

Manitowoc ice machine condenser fan motor not running ,fan motor very hot,condenser filter was very dirty,unit keeps on displaying HPCO Active

I have a Manitowoc Ice machine, model# SD1802A. Up until yesterday (7/12/14), it was making ice normally, harvesting properly, and so forth. I come into work (I’m a maintenance man for a restaurant), and they told me the ice machine was not working. The fuse on the panel was popped, so I replaced it with the same kind that came out of it. As soon as I plugged the machine back in, in instantly got a loud “POP” and it tripped the breaker, but never blew the fuse again. I did it one more time, just to make sure it was not a fluke. I did it a second time. I called Manitowoc Tech Support, and he suggested I check the Dump Solenoid. I pulled it out and there was a good bit of “shock marks” on the top like it had been shorting out. I replaced it, and when I plugged it in, and the machine kicks on, the compressor kicks on, and everything runs like normal, except for the fact that when the pump kicks on to route water to run over the cube tray, it’s almost like water isn’t getting pumped in fast enough into the tray and it all gets sucked up before it can start freezing. I also see the dump solenoid pumping water out. I’m assuming that could be where I am losing some water.

Does this make any sense to you?

@Tom, sounds like an ice thickness control, as this is the only component on the machine that will put the ice maker into harvest. To test, I recommend unplugging the IT probe directly from the board, not just disconnecting it from it’s mount, and turning the machine on. The machine should just continually freeze, if it does, turn the machine off and replace the ice thickness control.

Use part number 7601603:

http://icemakerpartsshop.com/products/7601603-manitowoc-ice-thickness-control

I have a Q130 Manitowoc ice machine. Recently it comes on- water starts pumping over ice tray, and -immediately the cycle changes to when ice should drop and then the machine shuts off all within one minute. It is like the machine goes through the complete ice making process without making any ice.I kept the machine in the off position overnite, and tried it angain. I made a bin full of ice. When I went back to it later, it was not working and the same problem occurred. I stopped and started it twice, First it shut off and the second time it continued to make ice. Is there something that might be triggering this cycling? Thanks

@Tony, glad you found what the problem was. We keep plenty of the 000009122 water inlet valves in stock if you wish to order from us.

@Tracy, having an ice machine that shits itself is never good. :P With this little information it’s hard to tell what the immediate problem is, typically when a machine shuts down like this it’s kicking off because of high head pressure. Your machine is unique because the compressor and condenser are on the roof, away from the maker itself.

Could you tell me what safety limit, if any, the ice machine is giving you? This would be displayed on the control board with a flashing light.

Just a follow up on my initial post. I reviewed the electrical schematics and tested the individual components, first the water level probe then the water inlet valve. The water level LED on control board reacted correctly when the water reservoir was full and empty. I used a multimeter connected to the water inlet valve and 208V was present corresponding to the water level LED. The issue was the water inlet valve. The unit used the older Invensys S53 valve. I will be ordering a new 000009122 kit to replace it.

I have an IB1024YC that will start to make ice but then the condenser pumps down and shits off.

@Tony

The easiest way to see if it’s the water level probe is to unplug the probe directly from the control board. Then turn the machine on, the machine should continually fill without a signal from the probe. If the water fills continually, then replace the probe.

If you still have water issues after unplugging the probe, then I recommend confirming you have voltage to your water inlet valve. In addition, you can take apart the valve to check to see if any debris is blocking the valve. Lastly, ensure you have proper water pressure to the machine, no blocked filter or something.

Hi there,
I saw your great comments and help and thought I would ask about the problem I am having with my SY0604A unit. The unit does not not fill the water tray. Is there a easy method to check to see if the water level probe , the water valve or something else that is causing the problem? The unit seems to make ice and harvest correctly when I manually fill the water tray.

Thanks
Tony

@everett, this is typically caused by an ice thickness control, as this is the only component to put the ice machine into defrost or harvest cycle. I would recommend disconnecting the ice thickness control directly from the board, turning the machine on, and watching the cycle. If it freezes, then replace the ice thickness control. If it still goes into harvest, you may have a failing control board.

Let me know the model number of your ice machine and I’ll gladly assist with parts research and tell you the part number to order.

I working on a manitowoc q when I turn it on it goes into a freeze cycle, but in bout 1 minute it changes to defrost cycle and shuts down. Not enough time to trouble shoot the problem. It blinks a safety2 but want run long enough to check any thing. Whats the deal?

@mike the probe you need is a single wire probe replacement, if you have the double wire original. The part number is 7627813 and can be found at the link below:

http://icemakerpartsshop.com/products/76-2781-3-manitowoc-ice-thickness-control

I am having trouble with my manitowoc mode# 0254A series 250 ice machine. Can you help.

My Manitowoc 250 series ice machine mode # JY0254A is not making ice. I was reading some of your e-mails and fond 1 closed to my problem. so I disconnected the ice thickness probe. I got a good sheet of ice. So it wright now it looks like the problem. Is there a nother way to test? And where can I get the probe? And what does it cost?

@Michael unfortunately the B570 is the storage bin and not the ice machine model number. Do you have the top piece of equipment model?

HPCO means that the condenser is likely clogged or the fan motor is not running. These would be the first things I would check, no matter the model number of ice machine you have.

MODEL B570. POWER WENT OUT THREE TIMES OVER A FEW HOURS . MACHINE WILL NOT STAY RUNNING.
IF YOU TURN POWER OFF AND ON IT TELLS YOU DELAY XX MINUTES (COUNTS DOWN) AND BELOW THATS SAYS HPCO ACTIVE. HELP!!!!

@Wayne if by tapping on the control box it starts working again, it could be a stuck relay. It would be unlikely, but I suppose a possibility. I’m guessing it might have to do with a lose connection to your inlet valve, water supply, or something of the like.

First thing I would do is remove your valves, make sure they are clean and free of debris. Was this machine properly winterized before storage?

I have a Manitowoc BD0152A. It was working fine last summer before I stored it away for the winter. Now that I want to use it again, it is having problems. It runs good, ice cells get cold but water only flows intermittently. When water stops flowing, I tap the electrical panel with my palm and it starts flowing again. But only for a minute or so. Could there be a short on the board? Where would I start looking?

@Kofi, it’s possible your machine is going into harvest immediately. I would need to know when the harvest cycle is initiated. The safety limit #2 would indicate that your ice thickness probe may be reading incorrectly. This is the first place I would start.

Unplug the probe directly from the board, turn the machine on, and see if it makes ice. With the ice thickness control unplugged, it should just make a big sheet of ice until you turn the machine off. If it does make a sheet of ice, we’ve isolated the problem, your ice thickness control needs replaced.

Hello,
I have a manitowoc jy1305w ice machine. The ice machine starts up and runs but never forms ice. It runs for about 20-30 mins and turns off by itself. All indications are that it’s a safety limit 2 code because after turning the machine off and back to the ice position, the light flashes twice. Anyways, the machine has never formed ice during this process. I have changed the bin switch, cleaned the machine and currently doing the 100th time thing to reset the safety limit code. Any ideas pls on what to do to ensure the machine makes ice

Erek, what is the temperature around the ice machine? Production can be significantly diminished by higher temperatures, even hitting 90 degrees in a kitchen can lower it’s production by 50-100 lbs.

Also, if this is a new installation, make sure they have it hooked up to the cold water line. Verify that the water temp is around 70 degrees as well. It’s been warming up, so if your water line runs over head or is shallow in the ground, it’s temperature could be high as well. Any heat will greatly lower ice production.

it is a 220lb per 24 hr production machine.
with 80lb capacity bin.
But i have had it on for 24 hours now and it only has filled up not even halfway.
I cleaned the fins on the condenser located on the front left of machine, and even left the air filter off to get better air to it when I installed this 24 hours ago.
Not sure what it could be.

@Brian, you could verify that you have the write water inlet valve, which is a part number 000009123. I’m not aware of an intermittent valve problem, they usually either work or they don’t.

The best way to check would be to see if you are getting power to the valve when it’s letting water through. It’s possible there is a relay sticking on the control board, intermittently sending constant voltage, even when the machine is turned off. If you truly unplugged the ice machine and not just turned it off, then let me know and we can get a valve replaced under warranty for you.

You can contact me at sales@icemakerpartsshop.com

I have a QY0454A. The water inlet valve was leaking as well as letting water flow in at all times, even with the machine unplugged. Ordered a new valve, installed, worked ok for about 30 minutes and then the exact same problem started happening. Pulled valve off and apart to check for debris, nothing found. Attempted to blow through the valve with my mouth and no air would pass. Hooked up to the machine turned on to check for proper operation of coil. Once the machine called for water the valve would open and I could blow through it. Shut the machine off and the valve closed. Put back on, checked water pressure to machine with gauge, 25psi. As soon as I turned the water on even with the machine unplugged water started to flow constantly. Could the new valve be bad or could the wrong valve have been sent? The hose connections from the old valve to the new were slightly different sizes and I had to adapt them.

@Jim, that machine uses a water level probe(2006549) and a water inlet valve(000009120). There are just a few things that could cause this problem. Either the water level probe is not sensing properly, the water inlet valve is stuck open, or the board has a relay stuck.

To check, look and see if the water level probe light comes on the board when water touches the water level probe. If it comes on, but continues to fill, then the water inlet valve is most likely stuck open. Sometimes trash can get stuck in it, holding it open, or the rubber gasket has failed inside.

However, if you are getting constant voltage to your inlet valve, no matter what the sensor says, then you have a stuck relay on a board. This is uncommon, but can happen. Most likely you have a bad water inlet valve that needs replaced.

Inlet valve for S300 – http://icemakerpartsshop.com/products/000009120-manitowoc-and-kool-aire-water-inlet-valve-115v

Model # SD0302A

@Jim, that would be caused by a stuck open water inlet valve or float valve. The water pump should only be used for pumping the water to the distribution tube and not actually bringing the water in.

Do you have the model number of your ice machine?

My ice machine will not quit pumping water. It’s making ice but the water is running over the fresh water tray and in to the ice bin melting the ice.

@S.R.Smith, sounds like your machine may be shutting off on some sort of safety limit. Also, I believe those had a thermistor on them, which could cause the machine to fail as you describe. I would recommend looking at your thermistor or jumping it out to see if it would run.

My b series manitowoc ice machine stopped working after heavy use of a wedding. I have 24.6 volts into the board, can start the compressor by manually closing the contactor points. But there is no voltage at the rocker switch, no lights . The bin switch ohms out ok, any guesses on this one.

Charles, I would recommend disconnecting the ice thickness probe(unplug the terminal from the board) from the machine and turning it on. If the machine freezes a batch of ice without problem, but does not harvest. We know that the ice thickness control was bad. We are basically just removing it from the equation and the machine should operate as normal, just not go into harvest, as that’s all the ice thickness probe does.

Did you get the IT probe from Ice Maker Parts Shop? If you did, please contact me at sales@icemakerpartsshop.com and if it’s been recently we’ll for sure get you a replacement. Assuming this is the cause of the problem. If the machine still has the problems you described, with the IT probe disconnected, it could potentially be a bad board or grounding issue with the machine.

I replaced ice thickness probe and the bin switch when I start the machine the green ice light comes on for a couple of seconds and then the red harvest switch flashes and stays on then the machine goes back and forth from freeze to harvest you can here the compressor and the ice plate goes cold to hot I have not replace the curtain because the magnet seems ok and the curtain isn’t broke the model is jy0454a what could be the problem.

@Charles, all I need to know is the model number of your ice machine and I’ll gladly quote you a magnet replacement. However, please note, not all magnets can be replaced, it depends on the type of water curtain your ice machine uses.

Wherecan I find a magnet for my ice maker

Jerm, first thing would be to see why the trough is over flowing. Is the water level light on, when water makes contact with the probe? If it isn’t, then we need to fix that first.

Also, if you are constantly getting warm water into the trough, it might not make a batch of ice or kick off within it’s safety. Let me know what you find.

Manitowoc sy0304a the safety limit 1 is blinking constantly and water starts over flowing out of the trough…the compressor is kicking on but the coils do not feel cold…the evaporator is clean
What might be the problem?

@Joe

Is it intermittent? An intermittent problem, as you describe, is mostly caused by a failing bin switch. This makes the machine think that it’s full and shut down, when it’s really not. The only way to test the switch is to OHM it out and look for consistency, over 100 open/closes.

How long does it stay in harvest?

I have a q450 and it will cycle ones make one batch of ice then never make a second batch. Sounds as if he compressor is kicking out. Can you help?? I’ve had two service techs look at issue and no fix yet.

Josh, most modern ice machines, especially modulars do not have float valves. Manitowoc ice machines, 300lbs and larger come equipped with inlet valves and troughs that are not adjustable.

Bend the hinge that holds the float so its deeper your water level is getting too high or adjust the trough

Phil, this would be caused by a leaking water inlet valve. When the power is off to the machine, the valve should be closed, if it’s leaking through then the internal plunger has probably been worn out.

We keep the replacement valve in stock, part number 000007966. Follow the link below to purchase.

http://icemakerpartsshop.com/collections/electrical-ice-maker-parts/products/000007966-manitowoc-208-230v-water-inlet-valve

Please let me know if there is anything else I can assist with.

Manitowoc QD0802A makes ice, harvests perfectly. I shut my ice machine off as I only need ice once per week. When machine is off, the water bin overflows, very slightly. Just drip, drip, drip. Probably loose a quart of water daily. What would be the cause of this? How can I correct this?